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Cha Ca La Vong: The Iconic Hanoi Turmeric Fish with Dill

Among the many beloved dishes of Hanoi, few are as distinctive or steeped in history as Cha Ca La Vong. Though not the city’s oldest recipe, it is undoubtedly one of its most iconic. This fragrant turmeric fish dish captures the essence of northern Vietnamese cuisine - aromatic, flavorful, and deeply connected to the city’s heritage.

The History of Cha Ca La Vong
The story of Cha Ca La Vong dates back to the early 1900s, during the French colonial period. The Đoàn family, living at 14 Hang Son Street, often hosted secret meetings for the resistance army. To conceal these gatherings and earn additional income, they began serving a family fish recipe to guests.

The restaurant became known as “Cha Ca La Vong,” inspired by a statue of Lã Vọng, a Chinese poet and revolutionist, that stood at the entrance. The dish quickly became famous among locals and visitors, so much so that the entire street was later named after it.

How Cha Ca La Vong is Made
The dish traditionally uses Hemibagrus, a freshwater catfish found in northern rivers. The fish is cut into medium-sized fillets and marinated with turmeric, galangal, and a blend of spices. It is first grilled over charcoal to achieve a smoky aroma, then lightly fried with fresh dill and scallions in sizzling oil to enhance its flavor.

Cha Ca La Vong is best enjoyed hot, served with rice vermicelli, roasted peanuts, and fresh herbs. Diners can choose between a dipping sauce made from fish sauce, garlic, and vinegar or the more traditional fermented shrimp paste (mam tom) mixed with lime juice. The ideal piece of fish is golden, aromatic, tender, and slightly crispy on the outside while remaining moist inside.

A Unique Dining Experience
Part of the charm of Cha Ca La Vong lies in its interactive dining ritual. As diners sit down, they are served bowls of shrimp paste sauce garnished with chili and lemon, roasted peanuts, and fresh herbs. Moments later, sizzling pieces of turmeric-marinated fish arrive, filling the air with an irresistible aroma. A pot of boiling oil is then poured over the fish, creating a burst of steam and sound that signals the start of the meal.

Every bite combines the richness of the fish, the fragrance of dill, and the nutty crunch of peanuts, creating a harmony of textures and flavors that defines Hanoi cuisine.

Where to Eat Cha Ca La Vong in Hanoi
While Cha Ca can now be found in many restaurants across Vietnam and abroad, the original Cha Ca La Vong restaurant remains open after five generations. Located at 14 Cha Ca Street in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, it continues to attract both locals and tourists. Another popular venue to try this signature dish is at 87 Nguyen Truong To Street. Both locations offer an authentic experience that preserves the spirit of Hanoi’s culinary tradition.

Cha Ca La Vong is more than just a meal; it is a cultural symbol of Hanoi, a dish that tells a story of history, resilience, and the timeless love for good food.