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Hà Giang Through the Four Seasons

Hà Giang has always been one of those places on my must-visit list, but only recently did I finally make the journey. After the trip, my local guide told me, “No one visits Hà Giang just once.” And I understood why.

Before traveling, I searched for information about Hà Giang’s weather in June. Most results mentioned “early summer rains” and “the water season,” which made me hesitant, worrying that the misty weather might hide the breathtaking views often seen on social media. But then, I came across the phrase “green season” in a travel article, and that single expression gave me all the motivation I needed to pack my bag and go.

The Charm of the Green Season
In Hà Giang, the “green season” paints the landscape with endless shades of life. It’s the lush vegetation carpeting the mountain slopes, the vast cornfields stretching across the Đồng Văn karst plateau, and the jade-colored Nho Quế River glimmering in early June. I was completely enchanted by the harmony of colors, the mixture of sunlight and mist, and the feeling of experiencing all four seasons in one day.

Hà Giang is like a graceful yet mysterious woman, one who reveals her beauty only to those patient enough to look closer. Wanting to see a different side of her, I sought out a more adventurous journey - one that would bring me closer to the soul of this land.

Across the Winding Roads of the North
The trip began with rain at dawn, forcing our group to adjust the route. My travel companion was Tùng, a native of Hà Giang with an exceptional talent for navigating the mountain roads. For three days and two nights, he guided me through rice fields, misty towns, and winding passes wrapped in clouds. Sometimes, it felt as though we were driving through winter in the middle of June.

What struck me most was not just the grandeur of the scenery, but the resilience of life here. Cornfields spread across rocky slopes where soil seemed almost nonexistent. When I asked how crops could grow in such harsh terrain, Tùng explained that the people of Hà Giang cultivate corn wherever there’s even a handful of soil. Water is scarce, and corn is the only plant tough enough to survive. I looked at the farmers bent over the rocky fields, their figures small against the vast mountains, and felt both admiration and awe.

Stories Etched in Stone and Silver
Our route changed due to the rain, so instead of visiting Khau Làn Waterfall and Túng Sán Cave, we explored more accessible spots, the Lonely Tree, Thẩm Mã Pass, and Cửu Khoanh Pass, before heading to a picturesque viewpoint overlooking Phố Cáo village.

When the sun returned, we traveled to Sảng Tủng Rock Plateau, where green farmland met gray stone in dramatic contrast. Near a local silversmith’s house, I was fascinated by the artistry of handcrafted silver jewelry made from old Indochina silver coins, a century-old tradition. I bought a ring, partly as a keepsake, partly because of the story behind it. The artisan also showed me a silver necklace worth 23 million VND, typically given as a wedding heirloom symbolizing protection, love, and family unity.

The Breath of the Nho Quế River
The next morning brought clear skies and cool air, perfect for visiting the Nho Quế River. Despite hearing about it countless times, seeing it in person was overwhelming. The towering cliffs, the whispering wind, and the emerald water below made me feel small yet profoundly alive.

Our final day included a 6-kilometer hike to the Happiness Road Memorial, a monument honoring the youth volunteers who sacrificed their lives to build this lifeline connecting the remote northern highlands. From there, we walked through ethnic villages, along limestone ridges, and down to viewpoints overlooking the river’s serpentine path. Each step was exhausting yet deeply rewarding.

The journey ended at Mèo Vạc Sinkhole, one of Hà Giang’s largest, covered with rare vegetation. Tùng told me that some locals still venture dangerously into the sinkhole in search of medicinal plants, though he quickly added that such activities are not recommended for visitors.

Reflections from the Road
Throughout the trip, Tùng shared stories about Hà Giang, its history, its people, and the hardships they endure. When he asked if I had ever been on a journey like this before, I realized this was unlike anything else I’d experienced. Traveling through Hà Giang wasn’t just about sightseeing; it was about understanding endurance, simplicity, and beauty born from struggle.

As the trip came to an end, my heart felt reluctant to leave. I wanted to memorize every mountain curve, every glimmer of sunlight over the valleys. And as Tùng said, “No one visits Hà Giang just once.” I know I will return - to breathe in the scent of the mountains and once again lose myself in the serenity of Hà Giang’s green season.